Maison Joseph Drouhin
The eponymous Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company, which bears his name in 1880, having spent much of his early life in Yonne. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards, including the famous Clos des Mouches, which we are delighted to offer below. An arduous process of expansion thanks to the nature of Burgundy’s patchwork of owners, Maurice was finally able to carve out quite the empire for his family, which endures to this day.
A titanic character in Beaune, Maurice both sat on the INAO committee and acted as deputy administrator of the Hospices de Beaune throughout the turbulent World War II. At the height of his powers, Drouhin even had exclusive distribution rights to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. However, he was unable to purchase a portion of the company, which subsequently went to Leroy.
His successor was his nephew Robert Jeausset-Drouhin, who took charge in 1957. Still maintaining a watchful eye over proceedings, Robert has ceded main control to his children (and fourth generation) Frédéric, Laurent, Philippe and Véronique. Philippe Drouhin manages the vineyards biodynamically, and as of 2009, their entire range has the ECOCERT organic certification.
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | $560.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru, which comes from 1.3ha of 37-year-old vine and sees 12 months in used barrels, has an attractive bouquet of white chocolate, almond and crushed stone, discreet white flower notes emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with lime and lemon peel, less honeyed in texture compared to the Vaudésir but with a more saline finish. Could it benefit from more tension? Maybe, but it is in keeping with the style of the vintage and is certainly well crafted. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 92 (VN) | $451.00 | |||||
Vinous (92)The 2018 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru sees 12 months in used oak barrel. It has a generous bouquet of white flowers, yellow plum and touches of orange pith and crushed stone. The palate is well balanced, presenting lime and orange pith on the entry; good weight and density here. Touches of dill and white pepper furnish a complex finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - | $544.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $513.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $205.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 92-94 (BH) | $2,775.00 | |||||
Burghound (92-94)A distinctly floral nose also possesses plenty of complexity in the form of citrus zest, pear and apple nuances. There is strikingly good volume to the seductively textured broad-shouldered flavors thanks to the abundant level of dry extract, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, balanced, precise and persistent finish that is both dry and quite saline. This should also be superb in time though note that this will require patience. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (WA) | $1,210.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91)The 1995 Beaune Clos Des Mouches, tasted for the third time (once out of barrel, once out of bottle in the United States, and again at the firm's headquarters in Beaune), is truly delicious. Medium-to-dark ruby-colored (hints of purple are still present on the rim), this wine displays roses, violets, black raspberries, and cherries on the nose and a medium-to-full-bodied, silky, complex, and gorgeously-balanced personality. Its flavor profile is packed with intense cherries, strawberries, and minerals which linger in its prodigious finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94 (TA) | $1,710.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)The Drouhins' holding in this famous Premier Cru is split equally between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it's generally the latter I prefer. This is quite a rich Clos des Mouches, that's combines flavours of Meursault and Corton-Charlemagne, but that;s no bad thing. Dense and concentrated with fresh acidity and slight grapeskin phenolics. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 17.5 (JR) | $646.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17.5)Despite being in its infancy, there is a lot to love about this already: perhaps the nose is reticent, but the palate has beautiful crunchy cherry and cranberry fruit with just a touch of black olive on the finish. There's dark chocolate and lovely hedgerow notes too, giving plenty of interest beyond fruit. Certainly not at its best just yet, but full of promise. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 17 (JR) | $502.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17)Deep cherry red. Ripe and dark-red fruits and some savoury spice. Lovely dark mineral character yet still has deep fruit. Some oak sweetness and spice on the palate and this needs to die back. But the fruit is beautifully pure and the tannins fine and dry. Dry but surprisingly silky already. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 17 (JR) | $687.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17)As with the white version, they pick this vineyard over several days. Final blend in tank, to be bottled by mid February 2021. Big and broad on the nose with heady, flattering, ‘sweet’ perfume. Lovely freshness and juiciness too. Clos des Mouches is always meant to be delicate. Lovely polish and very easy to like. Already quite approachable |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94 (VN) | $676.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)The 2020 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, which comes from deeper soils than the Beaune Grèves, has a mixture of red and black fruit and is a touch more expressive with a discrete marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, very layered with a gentle but insistent grip on the finish. This is one of the finest Clos des Mouches that I have tasted. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (JS) | $886.00 | |||||
James Suckling (96)Beautiful nose of wild raspberries, cherries, sandalwood, cloves, orange fruit and cardamom. So harmonious on the palate, with very fine, seamless tannins and fresh acidity, all integrated. Medium-bodied, long and full of energy. Drink or hold. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (WA) | $755.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Domaine) is shaping up beautifully, revealing aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, licorice and spices deftly framed by toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit, succulent acids and powdery tannins, the Drouhin's own fully 14 hectares of this prime premier cru, which is divided equally between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (JS) | $805.00 | |||||
James Suckling (98)The iodine, blackberry and rose-stem character comes through clearly. Plenty of fruit and depth. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that caress the palate and provide endless flavors of Indian spices, flint, nutmeg and light crust. Such refinement and integrity. Drinkable now, but better in three or four years. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93+ (WA) | $1,280.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted from bottle, Drouhin's 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc is showing very well, offering up aromas of fresh pear, Meyer lemon and grapefruit zest that are still quite youthfully marked by a generous application of buttery new oak that experience shows will integrate nicely with a little age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with racy underlying acids, a fragrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. This is a very elegant, aromatic rendition of this emblematic Drouhin cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 92-94 (VN) | $975.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which has been produced by Drouhin since 1928, comes from six separately aged parcels. Drouhin mentioned that quite a few barrels were deselected from this vineyard and blended into the Côte de Beaune Blanc. This possesses an intense bouquet with subtle scents of almond, praline and pressed white flower aromas. The palate is taut and linear on the entry, featuring lovely orange pith and apricot notes and hints of tangerine and white chocolate toward the gorgeous, pure finish. Wonderful. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (VN) | $1,020.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which is a selection from six different tries through the vineyard, has an intense nose, slightly Alsace-like in style thanks to a hint of linseed oil intermingling with yellow plum and orange blossom. The palate is well balanced with a tensile opening. Lovely orange pith and nectarine notes here. Not a voluminous wine, but very focused on the finish. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-97 (IB) | $1,155.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-97)Pale lemon colour. The power is immediately apparent on the nose, but in a good way. A wine for longer elevage before bottling and then worth the wait in bottle thereafter. This has all the expected volume of white fruit while retaining impeccable balance. Adds depth with time in the glass, before reaching quite a saline finish. A very youthful but impressive Clos des Mouches. I recently enjoyed a stunning bottle of the 2017, and this could very well match it in due course. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN (NM)) | $640.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (91)The 2021 Beaune Blanc Clos des Mouches 1er Cru has a fragrant, comely bouquet with white flowers, lemon verbena and just a hint of honeysuckle, a lick of vanilla pod from the new oak. The palate is rounded on the entry, quite powerful and lush for a Meursault, a real mouth-filling experience with tropical-tinged fruit that perhaps feels a little evolved for its age. Yet it has real chutzpah and is very drinkable now. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN (NM)) | $1,385.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (91)The 2021 Beaune Blanc Clos des Mouches 1er Cru has a fragrant, comely bouquet with white flowers, lemon verbena and just a hint of honeysuckle, a lick of vanilla pod from the new oak. The palate is rounded on the entry, quite powerful and lush for a Meursault, a real mouth-filling experience with tropical-tinged fruit that perhaps feels a little evolved for its age. Yet it has real chutzpah and is very drinkable now. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (IB) | $970.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)Fresh light lemon colour. The bouquet indicates a little more flesh, as is typical, but not at the expense of precision. As always this is extraordinarily intense on the palate, not yet as fleshy as it will become, but one can see into the future. Fine fruit and acid balance too, of course. 13.7% alcohol which makes sense for Clos des Mouches. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: November 2023. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-95 (IB) | $1,020.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-95)Mid lemon, with the somewhat more sumptuous bouquet of Clos des Mouches, always more flesh right from the outset. This is a powerful fleshy wine, with a good oak support, probably higher in alcohol. Lower than expected yield here in white. May well be around 14% I suspect but that goes with this territory. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Nov 2024. |
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