Comtes Lafon
Domaine des Comtes Lafon began in 1869 with vines in some of the best plots in Mersualt, Volnay and Le Montrachet. This family estate has been run by Dominique Lafon since 1985. He ended share cropping, key to their surging quality, with some of the best white and great red wine. Their cellars are the deepest in Burgundy.
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-93 (VN) | $2,985.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-93)(tasted from tank): Pale, bright green-tinged yellow. Very pure aromas of lemon, lime and honey. Rich and lively on the palate, conveying a strong impression of saline dry extract but also a distinctly fine-grained texture. Precise flavors of lime blossom, menthol and white pepper are nicely framed and extended by harmonious acidity. An excellent showing. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (VN) | $401.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2021 Meursault Goutte d'Or 1er Cru has an unerring sense of harmony on the nose, very focused and precise, demonstrating a little more concentration than the Bouchère. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine balance, crisp acidity, orange rind and touches of apricot, mixed with walnut and almond towards its sustained finish. This is superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94+ (VN) | $816.00 | |||||
Vinous (94+)Pale, bright yellow. Extremely precise aromas of soft citrus fruits, crushed rock and smoky minerality. Enters the mouth silky and thick but lively, showing a seamless texture along with lovely gingery spicy lift. A wonderfully dry but ripe Perrières with a fine dusting of stone and superb energy and class. More mineral and less floral than the Genevrières. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-98 (VN) | $2,560.00 | |||||
Vinous (96-98)The 2018 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru rivets you to the spot with crushed pebble and crushed limestone scents that could only really originate from this vineyard. Such intensity! The beautifully balanced palate delivers a fabulous line of acidity, notes of orange zest and white peach and a stunning crescendo toward the finish, which shows amazing persistence. A Les Perrières with class. Brilliant. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-98 (VN) | $824.00 | |||||
Vinous (96-98)The 2019 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a wondrous, life-affirming bouquet that asserts its authority and class over the other Premier Crus. No disrespect, but they just do not convey the same enthralling degree of mineralité and tension on the nose, by some margin. The palate is supremely well balanced with great penetration and outstanding nerve and mineralité toward the finish. Hints of stem ginger and white pepper tantalize on the aftertaste. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (DC) | $4,125.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)Although somewhat reserved at present, this has the makings of a monumental wine. Quince, ripe apricot and nectarine aromas are accented with hints of spice and marzipan. The texture has impressive density and power, balancing substance and elegance to linger impressively on the palate. Should begin to open three to five years after release and will drink well for 30 years or more. A portion of Lafon’s three-quarters of a hectare here has been replanted, but this is only the old-vine portion. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (VN) | $533.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)(on its finings, with a higher level of CO2 due to the fact that its malolactic fermentation finished very late, in tank): A note of musky reduction to the cooler aromas of nectarine, crushed stone and hazelnut. Then surprisingly silky and suave but tight and high-pitched in the mouth, with its stone fruit flavors conveying a distinctly dry impression and solid underlying structure. This sexy but backward wine will benefit from some aeration at the bottling and has the structure to age. This was actually the last premier cru vineyard picked in 2016 because the fruit here ripens later. The vibrant, tongue-dusting finish shows a lightly saline quality. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | $512.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)The 2020 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with lemon verbena, orange pith, honeysuckle and pressed yellow flowers. Vibrant and concentrated. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more extract here perhaps, spicy with touches of stem ginger towards the persistent finish. Superb. This vies with the Meursault-Charmes as "best in (Lafon's) show". Closure: Diam 30 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | $2,040.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)The 2020 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with lemon verbena, orange pith, honeysuckle and pressed yellow flowers. Vibrant and concentrated. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more extract here perhaps, spicy with touches of stem ginger towards the persistent finish. Superb. This vies with the Meursault-Charmes as "best in (Lafon's) show". Closure: Diam 30 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94 (VN (NM)) | $372.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (94)The 2021 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru has a very impressive bouquet with superb delineation, seamlessly integrated oak and hints of orange blossom and walnut emerging with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a silver thread of acidity keeping it on its toes. Just the right amount of spice enlivens and lengthens the finish, delivering the sapidity to tempt you back. All that you really want from a Meursault. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | $1,535.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2022 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru has a sophisticated bouquet with crushed limestone infusing citrus fruit mixed with yellow flowers and a little undergrowth. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity. This feels harmonious, lovely, poised and pure, with hints of tropical fruit decorating yet not defining the finish. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (VN) | $1,915.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)The 2019 Meursault Village was tasted without the Clos de la Baron cuvée. The bouquet is very well defined and full of vigor, quite tensile and steely given the warmth of the growing season. The palate is pure and honeyed on the entry, and quite spicy, leading to a rounded, tropical-tinged finish with plenty of freshness that Dominique Lafon ascribed to intentionally picking greener berries. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (VN) | $1,550.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)The 2021 Meursault Village includes a little more Clos de la Baronne this year. This has a slightly minty bouquet and background scents of pine that complement the citrus fruit. The palate is well defined with a pleasant "bite" on the entry, with hints of walnut and orange peel, fanning out gently towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Enjoy this Meursault over the next 12-15 years. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-92 (VN (ST)) | $373.00 | |||||
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (90-92)Musky, oily aroma of spiced apple. Round, dense and spicy, with sound acids leavening the wine thickness of texture. A distinct step up in sweetness and length from the Desiree. Perhaps more classic than the relatively restrained 2000. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (VN) | $410.00 | |||||
Vinous (90)(bottled just two weeks prior to my visit) Peach, orange and nuts on the nose. Round, fat, sweet and rich in the mouth, with very ripe citrus flavors. Wonderfully broad and full for the vintage but not at all heavy. Finishes ripe, fruity and long. This is about 13% natural alcohol. Lafon, who is a great fan of the 2004 vintage, believes that these wines will at some point go through an ugly stage, but they are certainly delicious today. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (VN) | $372.00 | |||||
Vinous (90)Aromas of hazelnut, iodine and spice. Supple and juicy, with very good definition and finesse to its sweet peach flavor. Lovely fresh wine with bright fruit and noteworthy energy. |
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