Cantina del Pino
One of the top wineries in Piemonte, Cantine del Pino’s vineyards are entirely located in Barbaresco, making them a true specialist in the region. A classic family operation, the wine is made by the Vacco family, with the vines tended by an army of aunts, uncles and cousins as well as winemaker Renato Vacco’s mother and father. Though perhaps most well-known for their Ovello single-vineyard wine, the entire range offers a sublime expression of Nebbiolo at its finest.
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Piedmont | 1 | 94 (WA) | $334.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94)The 2011 Barbaresco Albesani is the wine that surprised me most among Cantina del Pino's new releases. It shows an exceptional level of focus and clarity with tight tannins at the back that keep it stitched together tightly. It shows an impressive level of unity and precision. The bouquet is slow to start, but once it does it delivers a steady stream of dark fruit, licorice, balsam herb and crushed mineral. The Albesani cru, with its thick clay soils, evidently had enough underground moisture to avoid heat stress on the vines during the hot summer. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 90+ (VN) | $99.00 | |||||
Vinous (90+)The 2018 Barbaresco Albesani is shut down for a south-facing site that tends to give richer wines. I very much admire the energy, but I am not sure the fruit will ever fully emerge. Crushed rocks, white pepper, mint and chiseled Nebbiolo fruit are nicely delineated. The tannins remain searing in their intensity, though. The Cantina del Pino Barbarescos have a track record of opening beautifully with a few years in bottle. Let's hope that will be the case here. I wouldn't dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 93 (VN) | $95.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)As always, the 2011 Barbaresco Ovello is the most linear of the estate's Barbarescos. Then again, that is the key signature of this cool site in Barbaresco. Precise and finely cut, the 2011 offers an intriguing combination of classic Ovello energy allied with the softer, gentler contours of the warm vintage. Still, this is the most reticent of the 2011 Cantina del Pino Barbarescos, and the wine that will need the most time to show the full breadth of its personality. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 93+ (VN) | $313.00 | |||||
Vinous (93+)Not surprisingly, the 2013 Barbaresco Ovello is the most reticent of the four Barbarescos in this tasting. Linear and a bit nervous - as wines from this site often are - the 2013 is a bundle of energy. Even so, there is more than enough depth in the fruit to balance out the wine's structural elements. All the 2013 needs is more time in bottle. Readers will have to be patient. Even so, the 2013 is likely to always remain an especially dark, somber Ovello. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 93 (VN) | $133.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2014 Barbaresco Ovello is going to need at least a few years in bottle to open up. That won't come as any surprise to Piedmont lovers who are familiar with the natural youthful austerity that is a signature of wines from this site. Sage, crushed rock, mint, licorice and wild flowers develop as the wine sits in the glass. Translucent and energetic, with precision to burn, the 2014 has a lot to offer once it comes together fully. When it does, readers should expect a mid-weight, classically proportioned Barbaresco that is more about persistence than volume or overt depth. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 95 (VN) | $366.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Deceptive in its light-bodied color, the 2015 Barbaresco Ovello packs a serious punch. Dried flowers, mint, pine, herbs, crushed berries and chalk add striking top notes. I very much like the wine's sense of energy. In other words, this is classic Ovello Barbaresco built on laser-like focus and real nobility. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy structured wines that develop gradually with many years in bottle. |
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