South Africa
At the bottom of its great continent, South Africa is a country of unlimited natural advantages. With the confluence of two oceans at the Cape, the sheltering effect of inland mountain chains and some of the most dynamic soils in the world, every piece is in place for the production of fine wine. The most well-known region has historically been Stellenbosch, but it is the wines of Swartland that have really turned South African wine on its head in recent years.
The wine industry is in the midst of a renaissance with classically styled wines making full advantage of remarkable terroir and an adventurous spirit. As a result, South Africa is producing some truly exceptional wines of great character and value. Striking blockbuster Syrahs and Bordeaux blends to full bodied Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc are some of this great nation’s offerings. South Africa’s own grape, Pinotage, leaves critics divided yet can produce excellent single-variety offerings as well as distinguished Cape blends.
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South Africa
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 97 (GS) | $123.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (97)This attractive Hemel-en-Aarde Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulously dense and textured with multiple layers of creamy tannins coating the opulent fruit concentration. Full and glycerol in the mouth with refreshing acids, bright creme de cassis, black cherry and earthy baked plum fruit nuances. This vintage shows all the classic 2017 vintage elegance, focus and intensity with impressive mouthfeel and superb balance. You know this is something very special from the very first sip and certainly could be Craig Wessel’s finest Cabernet effort to date. Drink now and over 15+ years. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 94 (TA) | $118.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)Named after the two blocks that supply its raw material, Main Road & Dignity is a very rare example of a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon from the Hemel-en-Aarde region. Picked late in a cool site, it has cassis, bay leaf, fresh herb and damson flavours, grippy tannins, appealing zip and freshness and the concentration to age. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | $161.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)"We've gone more focused" says Nuschka de Vos of this complex, amphora, foudre and old wood-aged Chenin, inspired by the wines of Vouvray. Beeswax, lanolin and fennel aromas lead into a palate with good texture and structure and a pithy, mouth-watering finish. |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 95 (VN) | $161.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2018 Capstone (or Cornerstone, as it is labeled in the UK & Europe) presents an intense nose of copious black cherry, boysenberry and cassis scents; crushed violet and incense develop with minimal encouragement. The balanced palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, ripe but not overly sweet, and caressing toward the plush finish. Irresistible and quite cerebral. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | $111.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)In certain vintages, Cornerstone can be one of the best value wines in the Reyneke portfolio. Marrying Cabernet Franc with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, with maturation in 15% new wood, this no longer includes Merlot and is all the better for it. Graceful, granular and leafy, with caressing tannins, fine oak and bright plum and red berry flavours. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | $157.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)In certain vintages, Cornerstone can be one of the best value wines in the Reyneke portfolio. Marrying Cabernet Franc with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, with maturation in 15% new wood, this no longer includes Merlot and is all the better for it. Graceful, granular and leafy, with caressing tannins, fine oak and bright plum and red berry flavours. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (TA) | $333.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (95)It doesn't say so on the label, but this Reserve Red is made entirely from Syrah and is often one of the Cape's best examples of the grape. Inky, rich and concentrated, it has aromas of iodine and incense, savoury, almost bloody flavours, subtle oak and a sappy, tapering finish. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (TA) | $234.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (97)After 20 harvests in South Africa, Rudiger Gretschel regards 2017 as the best vintage he's ever experienced. The quality of this world class Syrah would appear to bear him out. Dense, chewy and complex, it's a Cape Cornas, with dark, brooding damson and blackberry fruit, notes of tapenade and rosemary, subtle oak and a finish that lingers on the palate for a minute. 2022-32 |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (TA) | $228.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (97)A wine that led the way for Polkadraai Hills Syrah, this is a stunning new release from Johan Reyneke and his team. Indecently perfumed with fynbos, lavender and black pepper aromas, wild, savoury tannins and a core of dense tapenade, damson and blackberry flavours. Sublime stuff. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (TA) | $241.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (98)Consistently among the Cape's greatest red wines, this is a brilliant, world-class Syrah that ages convincingly too. Thyme, rosemary and oregano aromas leap out of the glass, offering a prelude to a palate that is dense, layered and intense, with black pepper and tapenade flavours, thrilling minerality and effortless complexity. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (TA) | $221.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)Johan Reyneke sets aside a 0.5-hectare corner of a larger two-hectare parcel to produce this world-class Polkadraai Hills Syrah. Very much a granite-influenced style, this is earthy, intense and savoury, all clove, white pepper, bramble and blackberry fruit with a twist of stem ginger. 2024-32 |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (TA) | $192.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)This brilliant, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc comes from the top part of the Willow Spring parcel and is the latest in a line of brilliant releases under this label. Saline, pithy and flinty with hints of nettle and elderflower, fine oak and a finish that goes on for ever. Drink 2019-2027. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (TA) | $215.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)A welcome relief from the blandness of many commercial Sauvignon Blancs, this is an ambitious, dynamically farmed white from the brilliant team at Reyneke. Sappy, reductive and nettley, with a flinty note that's reminiscent of a great Pouilly-Fumé and a long, saline finish. 2020-24 |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (TA) | $187.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (95)A wine that takes its inspiration from Pouilly-Fumé, according to Rudiger Gretschel, this varietal Sauvignon Blanc is remarkably chiselled and pithy, with gooseberry and elderflower flavours, subtle wood, granitic minerality and leesy texture and complexity. |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 19.5 (MJ) | $230.00 | |||||
Matthew Jukes (19.5)I have written up Reyneke wines many times over the years, but this is the first occasion I am featuring three outstanding wines from this pioneering, biodynamic/organic specialist estate. To date, these are the finest wines made by Johann Reyneke, cellarmaster Rudiger Gretschel and winemaker Barbara Melck. Rudi and Barbara were in town recently to showcase their phenomenal creations. My featured white is a super-elite Sauvignon Blanc with more elemental power and thrilling restraint than an ocean of inferior wines from this ubiquitous grape. It is granted a gentle caress of oak from 10 months on its lees in 300L French hogsheads, and I cannot remember a Sauvignon as moving or as rewarding since 2017 Barre à Mine Michel Redde appeared on this page back in 2019 and Reyneke’s wine is £20 cheaper! If you adore cosmic, dry white wines, you must find this wine – I awarded it a very rare 19.5/20 score. |
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Coastal Region | 3 | 95 (VN) | $114.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2019 Syrah Biodynamic is drop-dead gorgeous on the nose, offering blackberry, blueberry, crushed violet and light star anise aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannins and great depth and intensity, equaled by a finesse that leaves you wanting more on the finish. A sublime Syrah from Johan Reyneke. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | - | $195.00 | |||||
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Rickety Bridge Road to Santiago 2014 is a distinguished expression from Rickety Bridge, meticulously crafted in the renowned Rioja region of Spain. This vintage showcases a harmonious blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes, sourced from organic vineyards that benefit from the area’s unique microclimate. The hand-harvested grapes undergo traditional fermentation in French oak barrels, allowing for subtle integration of oak flavours without overshadowing the fruit’s natural elegance. Aged for eighteen months, this wine exhibits a deep ruby hue, accompanied by complex aromas of ripe dark berries, spices, and a hint of tobacco. On the palate, it delivers a velvety texture with balanced tannins and a lingering finish, revealing notes of plum, cedar, and subtle earthiness. Rickety Bridge Road to Santiago 2014 exemplifies the producer’s commitment to quality and terroir, making it a superb choice for connoisseurs seeking a refined and memorable wine experience. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 93 (VN (NM)) | $1,030.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (93)This bottle of the 2015 Columella is better than the one poured blind at the 10-Year-On tasting in London just a few weeks earlier. It has a floral bouquet with black plum, blueberry and light garrigue scents, the whole bunch imparting a subtle pepperiness. The palate is quite sweet on the entry, the tannins saturated and just a little glossier than the '12. Fine grip, but backward on the finish, suggesting that this will benefit from continued time in the cellar. Tasted at the Columella vertical in Hong Kong. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 93 (VN) | $954.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2016 Columella was matured for 12 months in 10% new oak and then 12 months in old foudres. There is something warm and comforting about the nose: blueberry, crushed violet, a touch of burning embers, almost a damp clay scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, the Syrah not as pronounced as previous vintages (a policy pursued by Eben as he increased Grenache), and delivering gentle grip toward the slightly peppered finish and long, black-pepper-tinged aftertaste. Very impressive. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (DC) | $861.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)Complex nose already: beautifully exuberant nose of damsons and flowers – the Carignan really coming through at this early stage. A herbal, stemmy element is also quite noticeable but well balanced. Full-bodied on the palate but only just, with a lovely sense of fluidity, slightly granular tannins and fine acidity – everything is in its place, and is delicious now, but will improve and build further complexity. If possible, wait until 2026 to broach. Long, so expressive and unique. Various soils: granite, slate, clay, gravel. Three weeks' fermentation and three weeks maceration in 3,300L open-top concrete fermenters. Aged for 12 months on the lees in small barrels (5% new), then a further 12 months on fine lees in large wooden foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 98 (WA) | $759.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)From the first sniff, the 2020 Columella is an instant champion that is pointing and swinging for the fence. With its fresh frame of fruit and expertly layered oaky essences, the wine is incredibly complex as it bursts from the glass with precision and finesse. Medium-bodied and with 13.5% alcohol, the Columella somersaults into a phantasmagoria of bright crunchy red fruit flavors and seductive floral essences that makes my head spin. Collectors will take note and add a couple of bottles of this to their cellar. It’s an absolutely stellar bottling that will age gracefully for decades. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | - | $935.00 | |||||
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Coastal Region | 1 | 99 (TA) | $773.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (99)This is the lightest bodied Columella ever, according to Eben Sadie, but he's not lost any concentration or intensity at the lower alcohol level. Sourced from 12 different vineyards, seven of which are on the Paardeberg, this features components from slate, gravel, granite and sandstone soils and is a brilliant vintage of one of the world's greatest reds. Partnering Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca and Pinotage, this is an almost indecently perfumed cuvée with lilac, fynbos and rose petal aromas, plum, red cherry and blackberry fruit, subtle 5% new wood and a focused, grippy, stony finish. Wonderful stuff. |
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