South Africa
At the bottom of its great continent, South Africa is a country of unlimited natural advantages. With the confluence of two oceans at the Cape, the sheltering effect of inland mountain chains and some of the most dynamic soils in the world, every piece is in place for the production of fine wine. The most well-known region has historically been Stellenbosch, but it is the wines of Swartland that have really turned South African wine on its head in recent years.
The wine industry is in the midst of a renaissance with classically styled wines making full advantage of remarkable terroir and an adventurous spirit. As a result, South Africa is producing some truly exceptional wines of great character and value. Striking blockbuster Syrahs and Bordeaux blends to full bodied Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc are some of this great nation’s offerings. South Africa’s own grape, Pinotage, leaves critics divided yet can produce excellent single-variety offerings as well as distinguished Cape blends.
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South Africa
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Matthew Jukes (19.5++)
I am informed by the top man at Klein Constantia that the price will be the same as last year’s superb 2017 and all of the likely candidates in the UK are likely to hold stock. It will require a little effort on Google and you will see that a large number of wine merchants will list 2018 Vin de Constance and while the prices swing around like no other wine I know, at £60 or so, for a half litre, it certainly makes sense to me and when you consider the sheer quality of this vintage, it is a bargain for this celestial experience. Stock is likely to arrive in September 2021, but do feel free to register your interest with your preferred wine merchant now. Vintage reports suggest that the build-up to the 2018 harvest brought the highest summer rainfall of the last six years and, combined with some of the coldest night-time temperatures on record, the vines were granted a very long and very slow growing season. These conditions have imbued extreme delicacy of perfume and flavour and also staggering concentration and length in this wine. It also means that the 2018 vintage has otherworldly characteristics and I cannot remember a young vintage tasting so refined and demure. Light bunches and tiny Muscat de Frontignan berries underline just how unusual this vintage was and with a harvest that was a fortnight later than average and crops down by about 15% all of these facts make sense when you taste this ethereal wine. Aged for three years in a combination of 50% new French oak barrels, a small number of acacia barrels, as well as large format foudres, this is both a sensual and also sensitive wine. For a start, the colour is incredibly pale – think a young Sancerre! But the viscosity is amazing when you pour a glass because the liquid moves ever so slightly slower and more deliberately into the glass. The lights come on and the brain fires up immediately and it takes you by surprise just how quickly your olfactory system senses that you are in the presence of greatness. I was in a state of heightened anticipation, long before I raised the glass to my lips and the reward is exquisite. The perfume and palate combine in an astral haze of delight with orange blossom, fig, lemon verbena, wild honey and acacia notes caressing your senses. The texture is super-smooth, incredibly long and unnervingly gentle. It certainly possesses the longest finish I can remember on a Vin de Constance and I have, very fortunately, a tasted huge number of vintages of this wine. If you have never tasted this wine before, please start with this vintage – it will blow your mind. If you have and you are a fan, this is a critical purchase for your collection. I cannot wait to add this wine to my cellar later in the year.$352.00 -
Decanter (98)
Butterscotch, lemon patisserie and peach aromas. Pristine quality to the texture, lively and thrilling, this is a serious, opulent and powerful wine, more on the spiced, nuanced side with aspects of dried herbs, wood scents and bitter lemon and orange with a touch of honeyed lychee. It feels supremely complex and characterful. Sophisticated, layered and balanced with some minerality, a slight graphite edge all of which adds to the whole. It's still extremely youthful but there is real sculpting here, a sense of precision, style and freshness. Well crafted with an extremely long life ahead. A wonder, and one of the best from the estate!$565.00 -
Decanter (98)
Butterscotch, lemon patisserie and peach aromas. Pristine quality to the texture, lively and thrilling, this is a serious, opulent and powerful wine, more on the spiced, nuanced side with aspects of dried herbs, wood scents and bitter lemon and orange with a touch of honeyed lychee. It feels supremely complex and characterful. Sophisticated, layered and balanced with some minerality, a slight graphite edge all of which adds to the whole. It's still extremely youthful but there is real sculpting here, a sense of precision, style and freshness. Well crafted with an extremely long life ahead. A wonder, and one of the best from the estate!$370.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
The latest Vin de Constance is a very good rather than truly great iteration of this famous sweet wine, but that still makes it pretty special. Made with 28 different batches of Muscat de Frontignan, picked over the space of only three weeks because of the hotter vintage, it has honey, barley sugar, guava and apricot flavours, scented oak spices and a finish that combines glycerol with bright acidity.$555.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
The latest Vin de Constance is a very good rather than truly great iteration of this famous sweet wine, but that still makes it pretty special. Made with 28 different batches of Muscat de Frontignan, picked over the space of only three weeks because of the hotter vintage, it has honey, barley sugar, guava and apricot flavours, scented oak spices and a finish that combines glycerol with bright acidity.$388.00 -
(1x150cl) 2021
Tim Atkin MW (98)
Produced in what Matt Day describes as a "perfect" year from Vin de Constance, featuring a long, cool, three-week harvest, the 2021 release has no botrytis but amazing concentration, freshness and intensity. Combining grapes from 25 batches, this confirms the wine's standing as one of the world's great stickies, with layers of orange blossom, jasmine, quince, marmalade and tarte tatin, 168 grams of residual sugar and remarkable freshness and palate length.$225.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (98)
Produced in what Matt Day describes as a "perfect" year from Vin de Constance, featuring a long, cool, three-week harvest, the 2021 release has no botrytis but amazing concentration, freshness and intensity. Combining grapes from 25 batches, this confirms the wine's standing as one of the world's great stickies, with layers of orange blossom, jasmine, quince, marmalade and tarte tatin, 168 grams of residual sugar and remarkable freshness and palate length.$551.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (98)
Produced in what Matt Day describes as a "perfect" year from Vin de Constance, featuring a long, cool, three-week harvest, the 2021 release has no botrytis but amazing concentration, freshness and intensity. Combining grapes from 25 batches, this confirms the wine's standing as one of the world's great stickies, with layers of orange blossom, jasmine, quince, marmalade and tarte tatin, 168 grams of residual sugar and remarkable freshness and palate length.$384.00 -
(6x75cl) 2021Tim Atkin MW (98)
Produced in what Matt Day describes as a "perfect" year from Vin de Constance, featuring a long, cool, three-week harvest, the 2021 release has no botrytis but amazing concentration, freshness and intensity. Combining grapes from 25 batches, this confirms the wine's standing as one of the world's great stickies, with layers of orange blossom, jasmine, quince, marmalade and tarte tatin, 168 grams of residual sugar and remarkable freshness and palate length.$341 - $403
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Decanter (97)
Best in Show - Those seeking out reds based on Cabernet Franc beyond their French home are, often enough, looking for a red wine which combines something of the structure and command of Cabernet Sauvignon but with more lift, grace and aromatic refinement. The red wine from this year's brace of South African Best In Show winners fills that role admirably. It's dark in colour, with refined, complex, raspberry and root-spice aromas in subtle and uninsistent style. Look out for bright, pure raspberry fruits on the palate with a further twist of liquorice and gentian. The structure comes more from the wine's quiet, limpid acidity than from any notable tannin presence, further unscoring that accessibility and responsiveness.$178.00 -
(6x75cl) 2017Savour the exquisite depth of Laibach, Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2017. Produced by committed artisans in Stellenbosch - South Africa's renowned wine region - this engaging Pinotage exemplifies the refined viticulture for which Laibach is celebrated. Grown sustainably in iron-rich laterite soils, the 2017 vintage is matured for 14 months in French oak barrels providing a robust, flavourful character. The rich, dark fruit flavours intertwine with spicy notes and a full-bodied texture, presenting an unmatched taste profile. The elegant bottle design is the final touch, reflecting its unique prestige among wine enthusiasts. Offering a sophisticated drinking experience that goes beyond the conventional, Laibach, Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2017 is indeed a truly memorable accompaniment to any refined gathering. Indulge yourself and mark your occasions with the unrivalled quality of this South African gem.
$185.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (95)
This is "just" the basic Cabernet Sauvignon from Christo Le Riche, but it's a brilliant wine in its own right. Using grapes from ten different vineyards across Stellenbosch in Firgrove, the Helderberg, Jonkershoek, Raithby and the Simonsberg, it's a masterclass in blending. Matured in 18% new wood, it's wonderfully pure and scented, all violet, tar, tobacco leaf and liquorice, with plush yet structured cassis, black cherry and Asian spice flavours and the backbone to age for another decade in bottle.$174.00 -
(1x150cl) 2020Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020 exemplifies the pinnacle of Bordeaux craftsmanship, meticulously cultivated in the renowned Médoc region. Handpicked from estate-owned vineyards, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes benefit from optimal terroir, characterised by gravelly soils and a favourable microclimate. The vinification process employs traditional French techniques, including fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the varietal's integrity, followed by maturation for 18 months in French oak barrels, imparting nuanced tannins and complexity. Produced by Château Le Riche, a family-owned estate with a legacy spanning over a century, this reserve showcases their unwavering commitment to excellence and sustainable viticulture. The 2020 vintage reveals deep, concentrated flavours of blackcurrant, cassis, and subtle hints of cedar, underpinned by a velvety smooth finish. Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020 stands as a testament to the producer’s dedication to crafting exceptional wines that age gracefully and enchant the palate.
$196.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020 exemplifies the pinnacle of Bordeaux craftsmanship, meticulously cultivated in the renowned Médoc region. Handpicked from estate-owned vineyards, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes benefit from optimal terroir, characterised by gravelly soils and a favourable microclimate. The vinification process employs traditional French techniques, including fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the varietal's integrity, followed by maturation for 18 months in French oak barrels, imparting nuanced tannins and complexity. Produced by Château Le Riche, a family-owned estate with a legacy spanning over a century, this reserve showcases their unwavering commitment to excellence and sustainable viticulture. The 2020 vintage reveals deep, concentrated flavours of blackcurrant, cassis, and subtle hints of cedar, underpinned by a velvety smooth finish. Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020 stands as a testament to the producer’s dedication to crafting exceptional wines that age gracefully and enchant the palate.
$559.00 -
(1x150cl) 2021Wine Advocate (95)
Christo and Yvonne Le Riche are turning out some very beautiful Cabernet Sauvignons. Packaged in a heavy glass bottle, the 2021 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is spicy, dark and very riche (pun intended). The wine shows concentrated fruit enhanced by peppery notes and smoky spice. Generous oak rendering adds savory hints of scorched earth. I love the chalky tannins on this full-bodied wine. This Reserve is only made in the best years. Grapes are hand-selected from low-yielding old vines. It spends up to 14 days on the skins with manual punch-downs for gentle color extraction. It then goes into barrel for secondary fermentation, remaining in oak for one year. The final blend is then made and the wine is put back in barrel for another year, plus one year in bottle. This 10,584-bottle release is unfined and unfiltered.$162.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
Christo and Yvonne Le Riche are turning out some very beautiful Cabernet Sauvignons. Packaged in a heavy glass bottle, the 2021 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is spicy, dark and very riche (pun intended). The wine shows concentrated fruit enhanced by peppery notes and smoky spice. Generous oak rendering adds savory hints of scorched earth. I love the chalky tannins on this full-bodied wine. This Reserve is only made in the best years. Grapes are hand-selected from low-yielding old vines. It spends up to 14 days on the skins with manual punch-downs for gentle color extraction. It then goes into barrel for secondary fermentation, remaining in oak for one year. The final blend is then made and the wine is put back in barrel for another year, plus one year in bottle. This 10,584-bottle release is unfined and unfiltered.$357.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 2020 Viognier The Age of Grace has a subtle, well-defined bouquet of detailed lemon sherbet, lemon thyme and crushed pebble scents, poised and, yes, graceful. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and linear and quite steely toward the almost Chenin-like finish. This is not a flamboyant, Rhône-like Viognier – it’s is far more tensile and racy. It should age extremely well in bottle.$147.00 -
(6x75cl) 2023Wine Advocate (93)
The Lismore 2023 The Age of Grace Viognier is sourced from four cool-climate sites, including Elgin, where former apple orchards have gradually given way to vines as agricultural economics shift. The wine carries salinity and bright acidity beneath apricot and stone fruit, with a subtle green thread that signals freshness. Clean and precise on the nose, it moves toward a silky, creamy finish shaped by carefully managed oxidative handling that polishes away bitterness. Vintner Samantha O’Keefe continues to champion Viognier from these cool settings.$146.00 -
Vinous (96)
The 2022 Chardonnay Reserve comprises fruit from the Greyton homestead, which is oxidatively handled and fermented for 11 months in 500-liter barrels (25% new). After swirling to address the reduction, it reveals concentrated scents of dried honey, melted candle wax, orange blossom and a touch of grilled walnut. The palate is well-balanced with mineral-infused, slightly tropical fruit: quince and hints of guava that merge into a more mineral-driven taut finish. Quite a multi-faceted Chardonnay, this will age with style and panache. If that Corton-Charlemagne is a bit over-priced…and it probably is…then you know where to come.$261.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)
The 2023 Chardonnay Reserve comes from the estate. The juice was oxidatively handled and aged on the lees for 11 months in 500-liter barrels. This has a very complex bouquet with wild honey, orange pith and fine mineralité. It just soars from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine delineation. It’s tensile, focused and vibrant, with a precise and persistent finish. If there's a better Chardonnay from the Cape this vintage, I haven’t tasted it.$333.00 -
Vinous (97)
The 2018 Estate Reserve Syrah contains 50% whole-bunch fruit and is aged in 500- and 700-liter barrels, 30% new. It has an extremely pure, slightly floral bouquet of bright blueberry and black currant fruit infused with scents of crushed iris petals and violets, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is extremely well balanced with perfectly pitched acidity and filigreed tannins. There is an unerring sense of weightlessness about this Syrah, which is one of the most precise Lismore reds I have encountered over several years of tasting. Absolutely stunning.$350.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 2021 Syrah Estate Reserve, which comes from the vineyard most damaged by the fire in 2020, is 50% whole bunches and aged of 500- and 700-liter barrels, 25% new. The potent nose has raspberry coulis, blueberry and touches of cough candy, taking its time to settle in the glass and lose its initial exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, slightly chalky tannins. It’s fresh and vibrant, sapid towards the finish, with a long, Côte-Rôtie-like aftertaste and garrigue notes filtering through with time. This should be afforded a couple of years in bottle and will continue to evolve over the next 15-20 years. Just 12% alcohol, too.$121.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 2021 Syrah Estate Reserve, which comes from the vineyard most damaged by the fire in 2020, is 50% whole bunches and aged of 500- and 700-liter barrels, 25% new. The potent nose has raspberry coulis, blueberry and touches of cough candy, taking its time to settle in the glass and lose its initial exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, slightly chalky tannins. It’s fresh and vibrant, sapid towards the finish, with a long, Côte-Rôtie-like aftertaste and garrigue notes filtering through with time. This should be afforded a couple of years in bottle and will continue to evolve over the next 15-20 years. Just 12% alcohol, too.$424.00 -
(12x75cl) 2022$696.00 -
Wine Advocate (97)
Hands down the best Viognier in the country, the 2022 Estate Reserve Viognier is instantly impressive in the glass. It seduces and captivates with a delicate floral nose that overflows with aromas of just-ripe stone fruits and sweet citrus. Medium to full-bodied, the palate shows considerable weight with agile, succulent acidity before displaying an appropriate level of phenolic bitterness to keep things food friendly and fresh. The wine concludes with an elongated, ever-evolving finish that has me returning for more. Just under 1,600 bottles were produced. If you're a Viognier lover, you must seek out this bottling.$281.00 -
(12x75cl) 2023Tim Atkin MW (96)
Unchallenged as the Cape's best Viognier, this the latest in a long run of superb Lismore releases. Avoiding the blowsiness that is the variety's weaknesses, it displays a medley of quince, peach and passion fruit, with a dab of cream, ample concentration and a refreshing finish. Especially praiseworthy in a very tricky vintage in Greyton.$556.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
Unchallenged as the Cape's best Viognier, this the latest in a long run of superb Lismore releases. Avoiding the blowsiness that is the variety's weaknesses, it displays a medley of quince, peach and passion fruit, with a dab of cream, ample concentration and a refreshing finish. Especially praiseworthy in a very tricky vintage in Greyton.$361.00 -
Vinous (95)
The 2017 Syrah continues to serve as one of the Cape's finest expressions of the variety. Gorgeous scents of raspberry, strawberry, Earl Grey tea and pomegranate seeds feature on the detailed nose; then the palate is lithe and silky, with perhaps more garrigue notes coming through with bottle age. Divine.$241.00 -
Christian Eedes (95)
46% Grenache, 27% Cinsault and 27% Syrah, grapes sourced entirely from Swartland, the portion of Wellington Carignan that marked previous vintages no longer a feature. Approximately 80% whole-bunch fermentation. Complex aromatics of red and black fruit, rose, fynbos, olive, earth and spice. The palate has good fruit weight (despite a modest alcohol of 13%) to go with bright acidity and crunchy tannins. It’s a very measured wine – approachable without sacrificing character.$174.00 -
Christian Eedes (95)
W.O. Swartland. 44% Grenache Noir, 31% Cinsault and 25% Syrah. 80% whole-bunch fermentation. Whereas quite a few New Wave red wines sacrifice fruit depth for freshness, Lourens seems to achieve both. The nose shows top notes of lavender and fynbos before red and black berries, oliver, pepper and spice. The palate is medium bodied with fresh acidity and chalky tannins. Good fruit definition, lots of intricate flavours, the finish intensely savoury.$161.00
