Ponsot
About Domaine Ponsot
Founded by a soldier returning home from the Franco-Prussian War in 1872, radical thinking and revolutionary ideas seem to be something of a family trait. The current eccentric Ponsot at the helm of this fabulous estate is Laurent, who is making wildly unique yet utterly Burgundian wines from some of the finest Grands Crus in the entire region.
The Winemaking
Although classified as neither biodynamic nor organic, he uses no insecticide or pesticide on his vines that are an average of 50 years old. To ensure quality, the label is unique for having a white spot that turns grey if the bottle has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
Laurent Ponsot studies the moon and the stars (he is not an astronomer), and their effect on the rhythm of life in the vineyards. A holistic approach that sees him lean heavily towards low intervention winemaking techniques to respect this natural harmony. The faintest touch of sulfur is afforded to the grapes upon picking if absolutely necessary, and there is no sorting table in his winery. Once pressed, the liquid is essentially allowed to ferment whenever it wishes for as long as it wishes. Once the wines have achieved the requisite state of their own accord, they may or may not be racked in the following spring or summer depending on the cycle of the moon.
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Burgundy | 4 | 91-93 (VN) | $694.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2021 Corton Cuvée de Bourdons is perfumed and floral, quite Vosne-like, with peony and persimmon tincturing the vibrant red berry fruit. Airy in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, sappy and just a little New World-like in style thanks to its joie-de-vivre and breeziness. Ponsot's populist cuvée! Less has made something more. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 91-93 (WA) | $1,135.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93)The 2013 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru is much more flattering on the nose than the Cuvée de Bourdon at the moment, exuding liveliness and precision courtesy of bright red Morello cherries and wild raspberry fruit. The palate is well balanced, fresh and tense with palpable mineralité and tension, sporting great finesse on the finish. This is a sophisticated Corton-Bressandes in the making. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-93 (VN) | $1,570.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-93)(this fruit comes from the same source as the Cuvée du Bourdon): Good deep red. Sexy cherry and spice aromas complicated by alluring soil tones. Still a touch of reduction on the palate, but clearly a much sweeter and more generous wine than the Cuvée du Bourdon, with dense, well-delineated raspberry, spice and soil tones saturating the mouth and echoing on the finish. This firmly structured, sappy wine boasts notably ripe tannins and an attractive chewiness. Domaine Ponsot has made this wine since 1989. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 88-90 (VN) | $1,570.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2017 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru offers straightforward brambly red berry aromas with subtle hints of tea leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin, missing just a touch of flesh in the middle, and a firm, quite strict saline finish. Not bad, although I think there is better to come in subsequent vintages. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $1,645.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 92-94 (VN) | $762.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2021 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has a generous bouquet with high-toned red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, like its fellow Corton, evincing joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, more flesh and density here with lip-smacking sapidity in the short but effective finish. Very fine. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | $432.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is excellent, opening in the glass with notes of golden orchard fruit, spring flowers, orange zest and hazelnut cream, gently framed by new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with a glossy attack, superb concentration and an almost chewy sense of extract, its taut structural elements asserting themselves on the grippy finish. While this is marked by the warmth of the vintage it has the necessary energy and freshness to retain its balance. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | $1,615.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)(bottled in December; a tiny crop from vines on Pernand's border with Aloxe): Pale yellow, a bit lighter than the Monts Luisants. Very pure aromas of citrus fruits, white peach and crushed stone. A very fresh, pristine style that's rather closed and backward following the bottling but not hard or austere. This wine fills the mouth without giving any impression of weightiness or overripeness. Most impressive today on the very long, rising, mineral-tinged finish, which leaves behind a salty character. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (WA) | $3,090.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)As good a rendition of this cuvée as I can remember tasting, the 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is superb, unfurling in the glass with aromas of beeswax, white flowers, crisp yellow orchard fruit and wet stones, with nuances of nutmeg and fresh apricot emerging as it sits in the glass. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a concentrated core, succulent acids and a wonderful sense of energy and tension that balances its comparatively broad shoulders. It's produced from two parcels in Aloxe-Corton, one warmer and the other cooler. |
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Burgundy | 4 | - | $1,785.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-93 (WA) | $161.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90-93)The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee de l’Abeille is striking for the purity of its fruit and its freshness. This is a totally refined wine graced with exquisite nuance, depth and definition. The Cuvee de l’Abeille is a hugely promising wine. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $491.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 86-88 (VN) | $272.00 | |||||
Vinous (86-88)The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l'Abbaye has a perfumed, Morello cherry and rose petal nose, hints of orange blossom and incense percolating through with time. The palate is well balanced with slightly chewy tannins, simple, partly because of the young vines (planted 2014), just miss a little concentration on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-94 (WA) | $2,275.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-94)The 2009 Griotte-Chambertin is another big, super-ripe wine loaded with dark fruit. This is almost port-like in its intensity, with endless layers of blueberries, blackberries, spices and white flowers that build towards the substantial, textured finish. The Griotte is a totally seductive wine endowed with fabulous harmony and tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 | $2,185.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (WA) | $2,045.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90)Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru from Laurent Ponsot has a voluminous nose, though there is a stalky element that is not totally combined with the black and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite linear in the mouth, structured but like the Griotte-Chambertin 2012 from Réné Leclerc, it seems to be lacking some flesh and charm towards the finish. That said, it does develop in the glass, offering hidden notes of blueberry and a hint of crème de cassis, so I would advise not broaching a bottle for two or three years. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (WA) | $2,545.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93)The 2013 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, touches of mulberry and briary. It is a relatively conservative Griotte compared to others tasted from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth. A little fuller than the Charmes-Chambertin '13 with fine backbone, this feels chewier, but with plenty of substance on the finish. This is a gutsy Griotte, but it will mellow by the time it is bottled. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (WA) | $1,990.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru is certainly not as immediate as that temptress, the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin. This insists upon more coaxing from the glass, more swirling to eke out those attractive scents of blackberry, raspberry preserve and rose petals, all very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, sappy red berry fruit. There is pleasant tang of sour cherry here, even a hint of licorice on the finish that has more density than the Charmes-Chambertin, if not quite the nascent Charmes. Give it 4-6 years in bottle and then I think you might have a serious Griotte on your hands. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 92-95 (BH) | $2,275.00 | |||||
Burghound (92-95)A wonderfully spicy, elegant and fresh nose blends notes of red and dark cherry with those of cassis, plum, violet and discreet earth nuances. The intense and tautly muscular middle weight plus flavors are even more refined if perhaps not quite as mineral-driven while delivering superb length on the balanced but markedly austere finish where a touch of cherry pit emerges. This is also very clearly built-to-age and I wouldn't dream of touching a bottle for at least 10 years and it should easily reward 20. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $2,420.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 4 | - | $358.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | $1,270.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | $254.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru has a characterful, distinctive nose with fennel, wild mint aromas intertwined with nettle and broom. It conveys a sense of the Northern Rhône. The palate is well-balanced with Nashi pear and grilled walnuts, maybe just a little spirituous towards the finish, though bottle age should temper that. I'd stick this white away for several years and see what comes out the other side. |
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