Maison M.Chapoutier
About Maison M.Chapoutier
Established in 1808, M. Chapoutier is one of the oldest producers in the Rhône Valley. But its current worldwide fame - and the quality of its wines today - can be credited to the arrival of Michel Chapoutier in 1990. His willingness to change established practices - plus his determination to reflect the full potential of individual terroirs - has cemented his reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world.
The seventh-generation bearing the Chapoutier name to craft wines within the Rhône, it is reasonable to say that Michel Chapoutier is one of the most important figures not only within his native region, but the whole of France given his impact on the world’s fine wine scene.
Travelling extensively throughout both the Old and New wine producing worlds in his youth, Michel returned to the Northern Rhône with both vigorous passion for his craft as well as extensive knowledge gathered from hundreds of traditional and revolutionary vignerons from around the globe. The most important, lasting lesson learnt was the importance of terroir and the expression of nature’s nuances – a principle clearly evident throughout the modern Chapoutier offerings.
Setting about purchasing shares in his family company until he possessed a managing control, the first act of this masterful figure at the helm of Chapoutier was a revolutionary conversion of the entire estate to biodynamic principles in order to respect and encourage the terroir. An unprecedented move considered to be extraordinarily risky at the time, today many of its peers are merely playing catch-up to this imperious producer at the very height of its powers.
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(1x150cl) 2020Jeb Dunnuck (100)
In the same qualitative ballpark as the Pavillon, the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite is even tighter and more chiseled. It too is perfectly proportioned and insanely pure, with notes of crème de cassis, burning embers, blueberries, camphor, charcoal, and crushed stone. While the soils here are less granitic than from the Bessards, this cuvée always seems to show even more minerality in every vintage I've tasted. Incredibly concentrated, full-bodied, and yet still flawlessly balanced and elegant, it needs to be hidden in the back of the cellar for 10-15 years and should have 50 years of overall longevity.$515.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
In the same qualitative ballpark as the Pavillon, the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite is even tighter and more chiseled. It too is perfectly proportioned and insanely pure, with notes of crème de cassis, burning embers, blueberries, camphor, charcoal, and crushed stone. While the soils here are less granitic than from the Bessards, this cuvée always seems to show even more minerality in every vintage I've tasted. Incredibly concentrated, full-bodied, and yet still flawlessly balanced and elegant, it needs to be hidden in the back of the cellar for 10-15 years and should have 50 years of overall longevity.$1,455.00 -
$330.00 -
$1,535.00 -
$786.00 -
Vinous (96)
The intensely perfumed 2022 Ermitage L'Ermite walks onto the stage with a bang, screaming from the glass with pronounced black plum, black cherry compote, cassis pastilles, dried violet and cedar notes. Nuanced graphite adds a ferrous layer. Classic to the core, the full-bodied 2022 is a standout L'Ermite that’s firmly built like a brick wall, demanding at least until 2030 before showcasing its full potential to anyone lucky enough to own a bottle or two. A long, savory finish wraps it up nicely.$1,790.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
This is one of the greatest dry white wines I have ever tasted. The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a liquid mineral, crystalline expression. It is the essence of its grape as well as terroir. It may be the greatest expression of terroir I have seen outside of a handful of Alsatian Rieslings (Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind). It has that transparent character that terroiristes talk more about than actually recognize. Drinking it is like consuming a liquified stony concoction mixed with white flowers, licorice, and honeyed fruits. It is frightfully pure, dense, and well-delineated. As I said last year, There is no real fruit character, just glycerin, alcohol, and liquid stones. That's about it, but, wow, what an expression! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. This is for the connoisseur of rare wines. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.$2,605.00 -
Vinous (90)
Nose dominated by oak notes of vanilla cream and nutmeg. The richest and ripest of this trio of special white Hermitage bottlings, with perhaps the most detail in the middle palate, but also extremely oaky. Finishes broad and sweet, with firm acidity but a bit of unresolved alcohol.$758.00 -
Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)
Light gold. Intense, explosively perfumed and captivating, with a fabulous display of fruit, herb, mineral and spice aromas. A replay of the outstanding 2004, showing a leesy, pungent personality that suggests a great grand cru white Burgundy. The sheer flavor extract is remarkable; flavors include fresh and dried peach, pear, orange rind and honey, and the texture is sappy and tactile. There are only 150 cases of this for the world.$582.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
The 2010 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc, which comes from pure granite soils, is a perfect wine. This awesome white, made from pre-phylloxera vines that are not grafted onto American root stocks, offers notes of acacia flowers, orange and nectarine oils, a liquid rock-like component and a full-bodied, multidimensional and multilayered finish. As the great French wine critic Michel Bettane said about l’Ermite in many different vintages, it is “greater than the greatest Montrachet.” This is a 50- to 75-year white wine.$2,065.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
White wine simply doesn't get any better than the 2012 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc. A massive, concentrated, yet insanely pure and focused effort, it has an incredible bouquet (almond paste, orange rind, caramelized peach), full-bodied richness, no hard edges and finish that just won't quit. Of all the 2012 whites, this has the most minerality, purity and precision. I'd happily drink it anytime over the coming 3-4 decades.$2,775.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.$2,665.00 -
Vinous (94)
Brilliant yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon and jasmine; hints of smoky lees, iodine and fennel emerge with aeration. Sappy, deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit, melon and brioche flavors are sharpened by an incisive mineral nuance. Finishes sappy, minerally and extremely long, with echoes of citrus pith and dusty minerals adding cut and focus.$788.00 -
Vinous (94)
Brilliant yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon and jasmine; hints of smoky lees, iodine and fennel emerge with aeration. Sappy, deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit, melon and brioche flavors are sharpened by an incisive mineral nuance. Finishes sappy, minerally and extremely long, with echoes of citrus pith and dusty minerals adding cut and focus.$4,005.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
One of the most singular wines I’m able to taste each year is unquestionably the l’Ermite Blanc from Chapoutier and it certainly lives up to the billing in 2015. Offering what I can only describe as a liquid rock (a liqueur of rocks?) character intermixed with notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, smoked meats, charcoal and toast, the 2015 Ermitage l’Ermite is full-bodied, decadent and locked and loaded on the palate. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring and I suspect will keep for half a century$2,190.00 -
(1x150cl) 2016Wine Advocate (98)
My favorite of the white Hermitages, the 2016 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc boasts aromas of gently toasted marshmallow and ripe pear. It's full-bodied and generous, with a rich, grainy texture balanced by brine and zest notes. While it can be enjoyed now, my feeling is that it will get better over the next decade, then drink well for at least another decade after that.$1,120.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
My favorite of the white Hermitages, the 2016 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc boasts aromas of gently toasted marshmallow and ripe pear. It's full-bodied and generous, with a rich, grainy texture balanced by brine and zest notes. While it can be enjoyed now, my feeling is that it will get better over the next decade, then drink well for at least another decade after that.$547.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.$2,715.00 -
(1x75cl) 2018Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another truly flawless wine from this dream team is the 2018 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc, which comes from a vineyard located at the top of Hermitage Hill and was brought up in 20-25% new demi-muids. Offering a magical bouquet of liqueur of rock, quince, poached pears, orange blossom, and honeysuckle, it's a powerful, super-rich, expressive, full-bodied white that could come from nowhere else in the world. It's approachable today (it needs plenty of air) yet won't hit prime for another 7-8 years or so.$545.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another truly flawless wine from this dream team is the 2018 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc, which comes from a vineyard located at the top of Hermitage Hill and was brought up in 20-25% new demi-muids. Offering a magical bouquet of liqueur of rock, quince, poached pears, orange blossom, and honeysuckle, it's a powerful, super-rich, expressive, full-bodied white that could come from nowhere else in the world. It's approachable today (it needs plenty of air) yet won't hit prime for another 7-8 years or so.$2,140.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff!$2,495.00 -
(3x150cl) 2020Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another perfect wine in the lineup is the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, and white wine simply doesn’t get any better. I’ve never found another white that conveys a sense minerality and liquid rock like this cuvée, and the 2020 offers a piercing bouquet of white currants, quince, honeyed flowers, charcoal, and scorched earth, with celery seed and wild fennel notes developing with air. A huge, rich, massive wine, it has awesome purity and precision and a great finish. It’s one of my favorite white wines in the world. This demands 3-5 years of bottle age and will have 20, 30, if not 40 years of longevity, although I find estimating the evolution of Hermitage Blanc one of the most challenging and difficult parts of the job.$2,220.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another perfect wine in the lineup is the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, and white wine simply doesn’t get any better. I’ve never found another white that conveys a sense minerality and liquid rock like this cuvée, and the 2020 offers a piercing bouquet of white currants, quince, honeyed flowers, charcoal, and scorched earth, with celery seed and wild fennel notes developing with air. A huge, rich, massive wine, it has awesome purity and precision and a great finish. It’s one of my favorite white wines in the world. This demands 3-5 years of bottle age and will have 20, 30, if not 40 years of longevity, although I find estimating the evolution of Hermitage Blanc one of the most challenging and difficult parts of the job.$2,600.00 -
$2,345.00 -
(6x75cl) 2022Vinous (97)
The 2022 Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite impresses with hauntingly intense notes of linden blossom, chamomile, ripe melon and quince alongside delicate jasmine elements. Full-bodied and concentrated, the 2022 delivers a totally sapid palate with spot-on balance. The elongated, expansive finale confirms its transformation into something truly spectacular since I last tasted it. Simply put, the 2022 is a masterpiece of a white Hermitage. Kudos to Clément Bärtschi and the entire team at Chapoutier.$2,358.00 -
Vinous (92+)
Deep ruby-red. Knockout aromas of cassis, leather, tobacco, bacon fat and barbecued meat. Dense, quite dry and suave, with a compelling note of woodsmoke. Still quite tightly wound. Really builds toward the back end, which features big, broad tannins and subtle, complex flavors. This has the tangy brightness of the best '98s from the Northern Rhone.$1,840.00 -
Vinous (93+)
Full ruby-red. Granitic aromas of gunflint, minerals and licorice. Lush, rich and seamless but very backward, with very dark flavors of blackberry, licorice and spice. Less obviously sweet than the extraordinary Pavillon bottling, but this, too, dusts the entire palate. A wine of great structure and power. Explosive, gripping finish.$1,470.00 -
(6x75cl) 2001Vinous (93+)
Full ruby-red. Granitic aromas of gunflint, minerals and licorice. Lush, rich and seamless but very backward, with very dark flavors of blackberry, licorice and spice. Less obviously sweet than the extraordinary Pavillon bottling, but this, too, dusts the entire palate. A wine of great structure and power. Explosive, gripping finish.$1,731.00 -
(6x75cl) 2004Wine Spectator (93)
Has fine purity for the vintage, with silky-textured red cherry, raspberry and plum fruit flavors intertwined with mineral, light cocoa and floral notes. Gains weight through the lengthy finish. Best from 2008 through 2017. 240 cases made. -JM$1,060.00 -
(6x75cl) 2009Wine Advocate (100)
Even inkier in color than the 2010, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal is as good as Hermitage gets. Locked and loaded with phenomenal notes of jammy black raspberries, creme de cassis, crushed violets, smoked earth and spice, it's thick and unctuous on the palate, with incredible density, a huge mid-palate and a layered, multi-dimensional, seamless, elegant texture that just keeps you coming back and begging for another sip. More hedonistic and voluptuous than the 2010, it should still evolve for just as long, yet have even a broader drink window.$2,420.00

