Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Richard Juhlin (98-99)

Tasted prerelease with Denis Bunner when he just decided to add 6 grams of sugar. I have never tasted such a freshly disgorged VVF before and was really surprised by its bright color and lively character. Even more, I was surprised by its aromatic spectrum which in many parts reminded me of Coche-Dury's most beautiful creations from Meursault. This VVF shared its high-intensity petroleum bouquet and a really ultra-strong grilled, nutty and powdery aroma. Imagine that a pure Pinot Noir can remind you so much of Chardonnay. Added to this enormous bouquet is a fabulous freshness and pure fresh fruit where floral, yes almost citrus notes dance together with the grilled notes. A different and absolutely fantastic VVF that may become more classic from a purely stylistic perspective over time, but today it stands out as both fantastic and personally unique.

Wine Advocate (97)

A brilliant wine, Bollinger's 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

The Champagne Club (99)

How long will we be able to enjoy this treasure? You are well aware that the phylloxera louse can any day crawl under the gate and in a flash destroy the two fragile slabs of Clos Saint-Jacques and Clos Chaudes-Terres in Aÿ. This impermanence makes the wine even more treasured and unique, as if its stratospheric quality weren't reason enough to hold the world's finest Blanc de Noirs in high esteem. Tasted directly after the mellow La Côte aux Enfants from the same vintage, I was prepared for VVF to be beaten for the first time by its sibling wine from the same village. When I finished tasting it was clear that I had just tasted the perfect champagne in its style. The champagne combines the honeyed concentration of a Château d´Yquem with the buttery nutty power and sophisticated richness of a Montrachet from Comte Lafon. But my God, Juhlin, it's Pinot Noir. Yes, but the fabulous creation is more reminiscent of the mentioned wines than of a big red Burgundy this time. I don't really know why 2014 was so perfect for Bollinger. Perhaps one has become even more skilled at maneuvering all the details that give a perfect VVF, or does the old theory apply that naturally masculine Bollinger is often at its best in slightly lighter and elegant vintages? In any case, this is a colossal wine experience! The wine belongs to the small few who act with such self-evident weight that comments and comparisons feel redundant. The color is deep golden and the extremely small bubbles move slowly up through the glass. The bouquet is rich, dense and powerful like a rumbling thunderstorm in the distance. Filled with honey and hazelnut essence and screaming scent of honeysuckle. In the mouth you are met by an oily and creamy essence of dark fruit, 70% chocolate from Domori and licorice with the same grilled lemons and apricot marmalade I find in all Bollinger's wines from 2014. Monumental, long, dense and unreal wide like a parade street in Buenos Aires. Drink soon or wait ten years for the next phase. Just as with La Côte aux Enfants, there is a high risk of tunnel behavior for a few years. Right now pure happiness in a champagne glass.