Armand Rousseau
Usually mentioned in the same breadth as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy, Armand Rousseau has established itself as a legendary producer owning mostly Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin.
Born in 1884 to a family deeply entrenched in the wine trade, Armand Rousseau inherited several plots and the current domaine building, one of the oldest in Gevrey-Chambertin, as part of his wedding in 1909. After acquiring more plots in Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Chambertin in the late 1910s and 1920s, the domaine became one of the first in Burgundy to bottle his own wine. Rousseau’s wines were also amongst the first to hit the shores of the United States after the Prohibition, and his focus on exporting his wine is shared by his son Charles, who took over the reins in 1959 after Armand was unfortunately killed in a car accident. Today, the domaine is run by Charles’s son, Eric, who is also the winemaker.
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Burgundy | 1 | 100 (DC) | $2,845.00 | |||||
Decanter (100)Rousseau Clos de Bèze is a blend of three plots that total 1.42ha. Cyrielle believes the wine shows better in its youth than Chambertin. Both wines, however, are vinified in the same way: destemmed, long maceration, gentle extraction and ageing in new François Frères barrels. The result is sublime: charming in its youth, with accessible, ripe notes of red and black fruits, spice, mineral and game, plus a velvety, dense texture that is firm but not forbidding. This has the substance to last fifty years if cellared well. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 100 (DC) | $19,810.00 | |||||
Decanter (100)Rousseau Clos de Bèze is a blend of three plots that total 1.42ha. Cyrielle believes the wine shows better in its youth than Chambertin. Both wines, however, are vinified in the same way: destemmed, long maceration, gentle extraction and ageing in new François Frères barrels. The result is sublime: charming in its youth, with accessible, ripe notes of red and black fruits, spice, mineral and game, plus a velvety, dense texture that is firm but not forbidding. This has the substance to last fifty years if cellared well. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 98-100 (VN) | $4,555.00 | |||||
Vinous (98-100)The 2020 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an even more complex bouquet than the Chambertin - a quite profound, quite riveting cornucopia of red berry fruit, sous-bois and crushed stone all delivered with breathtaking delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, perhaps more saline than the Chambertin, wonderful acidity with real depth and structure towards the finish that already feels extremely persistent. Potential wine of the vintage, right here. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 18 (JR) | $2,230.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18)Cask sample. Mid-dark ruby. Quite a discreet nose. The fruit is fuller, darker and thicker on the palate than the Chambertin. Less redcurrant, darker red-cherry and forest fruit. This said, it’s less voluble and exuberant than the 2020. Definite cool-year effect. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (VN) | $860.00 | |||||
Vinous (90)Rousseau’s 1988 Charmes-Chambertin was superb. Deeply expressive, it blossomed on the palate with endless layers of flavor, stunning balance, and a note of sweetness on the long, lingering finish. |
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Burgundy | 6 | 88.5 | $978.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (VN (NM)) | $1,070.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (95)The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a splendid wine for the vintage. This has a sensual bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, rose petal and, as I wrote before, quintessential Rousseau in style. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and armed with that killer thread of acidity. Vibrant and mineral-driven, it fans out gloriously towards the finish and has a long road ahead of it. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | $868.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a mixture of red and black fruit, beautifully delineated, hints of blood orange and crushed stone percolating through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly judged acidity, slightly granular in texture towards the finish that displays commendable weight and length. Again, there is just the right sapidity on the finish. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | $5,205.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a mixture of red and black fruit, beautifully delineated, hints of blood orange and crushed stone percolating through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly judged acidity, slightly granular in texture towards the finish that displays commendable weight and length. Again, there is just the right sapidity on the finish. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 85 (WA) | $1,535.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (85)At the top level, Rousseau consistently produces three profound wines - Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques (as good as most producer's grands crus), Chambertin-Clos de Beze, and Chambertin. That being said, I remain perplexed as to why Rousseau's other wines are so surprisingly light and fluid. While good, sometimes very good, they are markedly inferior to his top three wines. Never one to jump on the bandwagon for forward, super-ripe vintages, (Rousseau still believes 1983 is the finest vintage of the eighties), he is unpersuaded by the acclaim bestowed on 1990. I was surprised by the lightness of the Clos de la Roche. The color is light ruby, and the nose is elegant, with a flowery, cherry fruitiness and a touch of earth in the background. In the mouth, this attractive wine is round, simple, and fruity. It should be consumed over the next 6-7 years. Rousseau reminded me that it had been bottled only one month when I tasted it, which, he claims, may have caused it to taste lighter. I might add that Rousseau does do a moderately intense filtration at bottling. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY. |
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