Armand Rousseau
Usually mentioned in the same breadth as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy, Armand Rousseau has established itself as a legendary producer owning mostly Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin.
Born in 1884 to a family deeply entrenched in the wine trade, Armand Rousseau inherited several plots and the current domaine building, one of the oldest in Gevrey-Chambertin, as part of his wedding in 1909. After acquiring more plots in Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Chambertin in the late 1910s and 1920s, the domaine became one of the first in Burgundy to bottle his own wine. Rousseau’s wines were also amongst the first to hit the shores of the United States after the Prohibition, and his focus on exporting his wine is shared by his son Charles, who took over the reins in 1959 after Armand was unfortunately killed in a car accident. Today, the domaine is run by Charles’s son, Eric, who is also the winemaker.
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (VN) | $2,805.00 | |||||
Vinous (97)Now at 23-years of age, the 1996 Chambertin Grand Cru shows a little bricking on the rim, appropriate with its age. The nose is as fragrant as I remember: wilted iris petals gently waft from the glass, cool and reserved. Indeed, I found this bottle initially aloof and standoffish, like many Côte de Nuits this vintage, before developing more fruit intensity, mainly black rather than red laced with loam and Earl Grey. The palate is just beautifully balanced. It is a stout and swarthy Chambertin so much so that you risk overlooking what for a 1996 is its filigree tannin structure. The fruit profile becomes redder towards the finish with a kiss of sour cherry and orange rind that all feel so precise and sophisticated. This multi-faceted and cerebral Chambertin is reaching its lofty plateau. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 90-92 (VN) | $2,375.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)Good medium red. Cooler, more precise, perfumed aromas of cherry and flowers. Lovely clarity and intensity of flavor. Very long finish shows excellent grip. Demonstrates a lot of personality today. Rousseau's Clos de Beze is always showy at this stage, but the '97 seems a bit less oaky than usual. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 92-95 (VN (ST)) | $3,235.00 | |||||
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (92-95)Deep red-ruby. Superripe, utterly captivating nose combines sappy raspberry, strawberry, cherry, cocoa powder, smoky oak, licorice and rose petal. Thick, silky and seamless, with compelling sweetness of fruit. Very slow-building, very long finish features substantial fine tannins. A great showing. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 97 (VN (NM)) | $3,650.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (97)The 2002 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru could well be the best wine from Eric and Charles Rousseau that year. It definitely takes it up a level vis-à-vis the Ruchottes- and Charmes-Chambertin. Multi-dimensional aromas, a cornucopia of red and black fruit, hints of Earl Grey, forest floor and light tobacco scents. There is a sense of completeness, the oak invisibly binding everything together. The palate is well balanced with lace-like tannins and exquisite balance, Rousseau's signature transparency present and correct from start to finish. What a brilliant Clos-de-Bèze. Feel free to indulge now, though it will certainly keep. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 18 (JR) | $2,875.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18)Looks if anything less blue than most other vintages. Pretty complete and rich on the nose for a 2004! Most impressive… Very fruity and dense and exciting. Really lively and vigorous. Long. Lively cherry fruit. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 98 (BH) | $3,935.00 | |||||
Burghound (98)This seems to have changed very little in the past 10 years and it would be fair to describe its evolution as glacial as the ripe but exuberantly fresh nose is even spicier than that of the '05 Chambertin (see herein) with kaleidoscopic breadth and depth. Like its stablemate this is a big and imposingly-scaled effort that possesses outstanding mid-palate concentration as the tannin-buffering sap completely coats the mouth on the explosively long, muscular and powerful finale. Despite the strikingly good size, weight and punch this remains a beautifully well-balanced effort that will need at least another 10 years of cellar time because even though it's not quite as structured and backward as the Cham, it is nowhere close to being ready for prime time. That said, it should be genuinely breathtaking when it finally arrives at its apogee. Tasted twice in the last year with consistent results. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 96 (WS) | $2,000.00 | |||||
Wine Spectator (96)Though compact now, this is full of sweet black cherry, black currant, licorice and mineral aromas and flavors. There's a harmonious feeling overall, with dense, well-integrated tannins and bright acidity, followed by a fine, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2032. 27 cases imported. -BS |
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Burgundy | 12 | 96 (WA) | $3,990.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2007 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru is drinking beautifully at the moment. It has a pixilated bouquet that is utterly entrancing – red currant, bergamot, hints of pomegranate seeds and an underlying mineralite that is divine. The palate is perfectly balanced with extremely fine tannins. There is something regal and self-assured about this Clos-de-Beze, with a sense of weightlessness in the mouth that is bewitching. This both satisfies the senses and flirts with profundity. Dare I suggest this is too exquisite to cellar? Damn – I’ve just gone and done it. Drink now-2020. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 19 (JR) | $22,755.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (19)100% new oak. Massive in build and less aromatic than the lesser wines but with masses of interesting stuff going on on the palate. Big but not heavy. At this level the wines are not so so different from the Bernstein counterparts! Rich and round, exciting finish. Lots of subtlety already. Very appetising but under a cloak of oak for the moment. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 99 (DC) | $36,215.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)This wine stood out at a recent vertical that stretched back to 1964. The 2014 vintage is an unqualified success here, with voluptuously ripe red and blackberry fruit, nuances of smoke and spice. The texture is silky and dense but perfectly balanced by a lovely freshness that carries the fruit to an impressively long finish. It is assembled from the three Rousseau parcels that total 1.42ha. Destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in new casks. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 99 (DC) | $6,010.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)This wine stood out at a recent vertical that stretched back to 1964. The 2014 vintage is an unqualified success here, with voluptuously ripe red and blackberry fruit, nuances of smoke and spice. The texture is silky and dense but perfectly balanced by a lovely freshness that carries the fruit to an impressively long finish. It is assembled from the three Rousseau parcels that total 1.42ha. Destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in new casks. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 99 (DC) | $2,375.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)This wine stood out at a recent vertical that stretched back to 1964. The 2014 vintage is an unqualified success here, with voluptuously ripe red and blackberry fruit, nuances of smoke and spice. The texture is silky and dense but perfectly balanced by a lovely freshness that carries the fruit to an impressively long finish. It is assembled from the three Rousseau parcels that total 1.42ha. Destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in new casks. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 99 (DC) | $14,935.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)This wine stood out at a recent vertical that stretched back to 1964. The 2014 vintage is an unqualified success here, with voluptuously ripe red and blackberry fruit, nuances of smoke and spice. The texture is silky and dense but perfectly balanced by a lovely freshness that carries the fruit to an impressively long finish. It is assembled from the three Rousseau parcels that total 1.42ha. Destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in new casks. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (WA) | $2,590.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)The 2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is spectacular, wafting from the glass with a dramatic bouquet of sweet grilled meat, red and black fruit, candied peel and rich soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and powerful, with a lavishly gourmand attack that evokes the 2009 rendition, but this quickly segues into the mid-palate of an altogether more tautly structural, serious wine, its considerable dimension and concentration underwritten by racy acids. The finish is long and firm. This is a monumental Clos de Bèze built for the long haul. |
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Burgundy | 7 | 98 (BH) | $2,875.00 | |||||
Burghound (98)Here too there is just enough wood in evidence to mention on the gorgeously spiced and intricately layered aromas of essence of red currant, floral, plum, earth and a whisper of the sauvage. Once again the mouthfeel of the notably more imposingly-scaled flavors is sleek with excellent minerality that really comes up on the super-saline finish that goes on and on. But what I really admire about the '16 Bèze is the texture because it's at once muscular yet highly seductive and refined. This is a very, very powerful wine that is seriously impressive in every respect. In a word, brilliant. |
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