Domaine Arlaud
About Domaine Arlaud
In 1942, Joseph Arlaud married Renée Amiot and it was the latter who brought deep Burgundian roots and swathes of Grand Cru vines to the partnership. Far from a lucky benefactor of a sizable dowry however, Joseph embarked on a project of extremely shrewd acquisitions over the next few years, growing the family Domaine to hold plots in an enviable four Grands Crus.
Culminating in the 1966 acquisition of the 14th Century cellar which adorns their label, Joseph Arlaud passed on one of the greatest Domaines in Burgundy to his diligent children. Today, it is his grandson Cyprien Arlaud who manages the estate, having taken over total control in 2013. Moving winemaking to more modern (and effective!) premises in Morey Saint Denis, the beautiful ancient cellar is now used to store the family reserves and host exclusive tastings.
Viniculture
One of the very first estates to recognise the importance of modern, low-intervention and biodynamic practices and their positive impacts on the soil and general terroir of this special region, Domaine Arlaud ceased use of all chemical herbicides as early as 1998 whilst drastically reducing all non-natural treatments at the same time. Slowly but surely over the course of Cyprien’s involvement amongst the vines, Domaine Arlaud was awarded the official status of fully Biodynamic by Veritas in 2014.
There is a desperation to convey the personality of both fruit and terroir at Domaine Arlaud, which culminates in extremely gentle and well-judged winemaking. After initial harvest, for example, grapes are sorted and destemmed by hand a further three times! Over recent years, some 30% of bunches are left whole, meaning tannin and structure is imbued naturally into the wine without the need for aggressive extraction and brutal pressing.
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(2x150cl) 2014Vinous (94)
Medium red. A sexy note of reduction to the aromas of strawberry, brown spices, game and rose petal, plus a whiff of white truffle. Plush, silky and utterly seamless; wonderfully full for the vintage yet with no undue weight. The red cherry and saline mineral flavors are less expressive than those of the Ruchots, conveying a restrained sweetness. This is best today on the back end, where it displays sappy, subtle flavor intensity and spreads out to saturate the palate and build on the long aftertaste.$1,410.00 -
(6x75cl) 2014Vinous (94)
Medium red. A sexy note of reduction to the aromas of strawberry, brown spices, game and rose petal, plus a whiff of white truffle. Plush, silky and utterly seamless; wonderfully full for the vintage yet with no undue weight. The red cherry and saline mineral flavors are less expressive than those of the Ruchots, conveying a restrained sweetness. This is best today on the back end, where it displays sappy, subtle flavor intensity and spreads out to saturate the palate and build on the long aftertaste.$1,805.00 -
Vinous (93-95)
Medium red. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, flowers and spices. Juicy on entry, then suave and light on its feet in the middle, with dense red berry flavors accented by white pepper, mint and flowers. This is a live wire in the mouth but it's also seamless and refined. The very subtle, slowly mounting finish displays a touch of medicinal bitterness that stimulates the salivary glands. Arlaud noted that his grand cru vineyards yielded 30 to 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2015, which he described as good for a dry year and better balanced as a result. The berries were small in 2015 but not nearly as tiny as those in 2003, when the same vineyards produced barely 20 hectoliters per hectare.$1,990.00 -
Vinous (92-94)
Medium red. A reticent but pure expression of Clos de la Roche soil on the nose, offering subtle scents of raspberry, strawberry, dried flowers, brown spices, underbrush and minerals. Juicy and fine-grained but youthfully tight, with lovely spicy, integrated, mineral-driven acidity framing the red berry and earth flavors. Finishes lively and tight but not hard or dry. Arlaud noted that the pH is 3.5, at the high end for his 2016s, as is usually the case for this wine, which comes from vines that he's careful not to pick too early. We need to accept a higher pH in order to get enough fruit ripeness, he explained.$313.00 -
(3x150cl) 2016
Vinous (92-94)
Medium red. A reticent but pure expression of Clos de la Roche soil on the nose, offering subtle scents of raspberry, strawberry, dried flowers, brown spices, underbrush and minerals. Juicy and fine-grained but youthfully tight, with lovely spicy, integrated, mineral-driven acidity framing the red berry and earth flavors. Finishes lively and tight but not hard or dry. Arlaud noted that the pH is 3.5, at the high end for his 2016s, as is usually the case for this wine, which comes from vines that he's careful not to pick too early. We need to accept a higher pH in order to get enough fruit ripeness, he explained.$1,835.00 -
(1x75cl) 2017Vinous (94-96)
The 2017 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru comes from a single 0.43-hectare parcel in the lieu-dit of Les Mochamps, along the perimeter wall of the vineyard. It has a fragrant bouquet of gorgeous, pure, violet-infused black and blue fruit that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious, displaying a satin-like texture toward the finish. This is the standout from the _ domaine_ this year.$477.00 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is matured with 30% whole bunch and 20% new oak. The superb bouquet presents a mélange of red and black fruit, sous-bois and blood orange aromas that blossom from the glass. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and finely judged acidity. Quite compact for a Clos de la Roche, with noticeable backbone on the finish. It will require several years in bottle but it should be worth the wait.$734.00 -
(6x75cl) 2019Vinous (94-96)
The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is less immediate on the nose than the Clos de la Roche and takes time to unfurl, eventually revealing black fruit, wet loamy soil, mint and sage aromas. This is very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with a structured, serious opening. Very linear and very saline, this almost goes out of its way to avoid being enjoyable at this prenatal stage. Brutally backward, it will deserve serious cellaring.$3,315.00 -
Vinous (95-97)
The 2020 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru might be a little more compact on the nose compared to the Clos de la Roche at the moment, yet I feel that this has more focus and cohesion by comparison. Wonderful mineralité here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, an entrancing symmetry here with a caressing, almost citrus-fresh finish that feels very long. Superb.$516.00 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has what is often termed "transparency" on the entrancing nose, airy yet vigorous with lifted red berry fruit, petrichor and light citrus aromas. There's just a hint of reduction but minor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite deep and intense, elegant and lightly spiced towards the persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Unerringly symmetrical.$402.00 -
(3x150cl) 2023Vinous - Neal Martin (95-97)
The 2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru seems more detailed and articulates its terroir with more aplomb than the Clos de la Roche at the moment. There is brightness and energy, combined with complexity. After a few swirls, touches of bay leaf and tea leaves emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit and fine grip, slightly more viscous in texture than the Clos de la Roche, with a pinch of black pepper and graphite on the long finish. Superb.$2,793 - $3,352
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Vinous - Neal Martin (95-97)
The 2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru seems more detailed and articulates its terroir with more aplomb than the Clos de la Roche at the moment. There is brightness and energy, combined with complexity. After a few swirls, touches of bay leaf and tea leaves emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit and fine grip, slightly more viscous in texture than the Clos de la Roche, with a pinch of black pepper and graphite on the long finish. Superb.$1,970.00 -
(1x75cl) 2013Vinous (87-89)
Good medium red. Less reduced on the nose than the first two village wines, offering perfumed scents of red cherry and flowers. Juicy, focused and low in fat; in fact, a bit youthfully imploded today. Still, this tight, youthfully austere wine is a step up in intensity, and its brisk acidity is nicely integrated. Finishes with good persistence.$89.00 -
Vinous (89-92)
Good dark red. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, plum, chocolate and animal fur. Sweet, lush and mouthfilling, conveying an impression of almost chocolatey ripeness. In a very sweet stage right now but this village wine also possesses nicely integrated acidity and finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. The longest of these village wines, showing excellent lingering fruit.$107.00 -
Vinous (88-90)
Healthy dark red. Reduced, soil-driven scents of raspberry, smoke and fresh blood. Conveys more texture and ripeness than the Chambolle villages but with plenty of balancing acidity. This juicy midweight offers an enticing red cherry sweetness in the middle palate and finishes with red berries and spices. Here the tannins are nicely broad and well supported by the wine's material.$127.00 -
(6x75cl) 2018$578.00 -
(12x75cl) 2021Vinous (89-91)
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village is the most expressive and charming of Arlaud's Village Crus with lovely brambly red fruit mixed with sous-bois and light citrus scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety smooth entry, plush tannins, hints of kirsch and blood orange on the finish. Excellent.$912.00 -
(6x75cl) 2021Vinous (89-91)
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village is the most expressive and charming of Arlaud's Village Crus with lovely brambly red fruit mixed with sous-bois and light citrus scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety smooth entry, plush tannins, hints of kirsch and blood orange on the finish. Excellent.$430.00 -
Vinous (89+)
Good deep red. High-pitched aromas of sweet red berries and spices. Dense and very ripe, with noteworthy fat as well as a medicinal reserve to the flavor of raspberry liqueur. Finishes broad and quite dry, with substantial but well-buffered tannins.$1,515.00 -
Vinous (90-92)
(these vines average 40 years of age): Medium bright red. Sexy soil-driven aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, iron, leather, smoke and spices. A step up in creaminess of texture and mellow sweetness from the preceding examples. The tannins are substantial but ripe and late-arriving, allowing this wine to maintain its sweetness longer. Finishes with lingering spicy lift. Classic Morey-Saint-Denis from a ripe year.$179.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-94)
Fresh dark purple, a mild reduction, a wine of elegance and charm on the palate with a surprisingly peppery finish. Almost exotic Asian spices. The fruit itself spreads beautifully across the palate, a mix of red and black. Tasted: December 2021$635.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Millandes 1er Cru has impressive definition on the nose with blackberry, raspberry and crushed limestone. The palate is very well balanced with quite saturated tannins, fine-boned and finessed with a touch of kirsch and blood orange on the finish. Excellent.$325.00 -
Burghound (91-94)
A discreet application of wood sets off the softly spicy and earthy aromas of violet, lavender plum and red currant. The powerful and markedly more concentrated broad-shouldered flavors exude a subtle minerality on the succulent yet very firmly structured finale that exhibits excellent length. Patience will be necessary but it should be well-rewarded in time as this is packed with development potential.$641.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-94)
Not too deep in colour, an even crimson ruby. Very much a red fruit nose as well, actually this is quite striking and very well poised. Fills the mouth, discreetly, then develops further depth of fruit at the back of the palate, as well as showing a little oak. I think this will emerge as a very successful 2023. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Dec 2024.$637.00 -
(6x75cl) 2010Vinous (91)
Medium red. Highly aromatic scents of redcurrant, clove, cinnamon and dried flowers. Juicy, spicy and precise on the palate, with lovely lift and a light touch. Most impressive today on the very fine-grained, building finish, which features sweet tannins and palate-staining spice character. All about perfume.$885.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chesaux 1er Cru offers an attractive mélange of mulberry, blackberry and subtle traces of blue fruit. It feels pure and quite generous. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline, almost briny entry and a powdery texture. This has one of the firmest backbones among the _ domaine’s_ Premier Crus, that brine-like element tangible all the way through to the masculine finish. Excellent, but one for those who love traditional Morey-Saint-Denis.$111.00 -
Vinous (89-91)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chezaux 1er Cru perhaps does not convey the same cohesion as Arlaud’s other Premier Crus at the moment, a little earthier and more broody. The palate is sweet and ripe with rounded black cherries and crème de cassis notes, though it needs a little more precision and terroir expression on the finish. One to watch.$117.00 -
(6x75cl) 2022Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)
Mid crimson purple. Perhaps a slight reduction but the fruit really wants to express itself here. Expressive yet with refinement. Richer raspberry fruit here, fills the mouth impressively, though never over opulent, a little pepper and spice at the back, long and satisfying.$511.00 -
$684.00 -
Vinous (90-92)
(the Arlauds have gotten this fruit from 60-year-old vines through a fermage arrangement since 2004): Good bright red. Lively aromas of black raspberry, spices and violet. Juicy, fruity, spicy and fresh; very ripe but not a fleshy style. Finishes with noteworthy verve and punch, and the spine to reward aging. This dark clay and calcaire soil would probably be great for Chardonnay, noted Cyprien Arlaud.$499.00
