Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Wine Advocate (97)

Disgorged in 2019, Bollinger’s 2009 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises offers a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and beeswax, mingling with notes of candied orange zest and pastries. On the palate, it is full-bodied, layered and vinous, revealing a core of concentrated fruit that gives way to a long, enveloping finish with Pinot Noir phenolics emerging gracefully. Enjoyed on its own, the 2009 leaves little to be desired—but when compared directly with the more expressive and harmonious 2004, the choice of which glass to refill first becomes instantly apparent. Given the small production volumes of Vieilles Vignes Françaises, revisiting this rendition in the future may prove challenging. However, for those fortunate enough to possess a bottle, my advice is to wait until 2030 before opening it, in order to experience it at its fullest expression.

Vinous (93)

The 2015 Matriarch is an absolutely gorgeous second wine from BOND that benefits from the diversity of fruit sources that go into the blend. That is quite obvious when comparing Matriarch to The Maiden, the second wine of Harlan Estate, which draws from a more narrow set of parcels. Ripe red and purplish berry fruit, blood orange, mint and floral notes all grace this exquisitely silky, captivating wine from BOND. The 2015 Matriarch is just gorgeous.

Discover the pinnacle of American viticulture with the Bookster Napa Valley Merlot 2005. An exquisite creation from the celebrated region of Napa Valley, California, this Merlot is the embodiment of the deep-rooted winemaking traditions of Bookster Winery. At Bookster, meticulous viticultural practices are carried out to derive the superior quality fruit central to the robust, complex profile of this delightful wine.

The Bookster Napa Valley Merlot 2005 exhibits an elegant, rich ruby colour that lures you into a vibrant bouquet bursting with refined notes of black cherry, plum, and chocolate, accentuated by subtle nuances of toasted oak. Velvety, rounded tannins and a well-integrated acidity frame the intense dark fruit core, leading to a long, luscious finish. Aged gracefully, this 14.5% abv wine is an excellent choice for any discerning palate. Experience the masterpiece that is Bookster Napa Valley Merlot 2005, a fine specimen at the apex of Napa Valley's wine renaissance.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Almost all Grenache (there are splashes of Cinsault and Clairette), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape A La Gloire De Mon Grand-Père was 50% destemmed and brought up in a mix of foudres and demi-muids. It has a riper, sexy bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, toasted spices, dried flowers, and sweet Provençal garrigue to go with a full-bodied, beautifully textured, seamless style on the palate. It still has a classic feel, yet there’s certainly more fruit and opulence here compared to the more concentrated, masculine style of the Chante Le Merle cuvée. This beauty is going to drink nicely right out of the gate and cruise for 15-20 years as well.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Moving to the old vine cuvée, which is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes reveals a deeper ruby/purple color as well as a richer, slightly more powerful bouquet of blackcurrants, jammy black cherries, roasted garrigue, black licorice, and assorted background notes of spicy meatiness. It’s full-bodied and has a beautiful mid-palate, building tannins, and a great finish. This is another classic yet ripe, pure, and beautifully balanced wine from this estate that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years or more.

Vinous (93)

Bright violet. Expressive aromas of cherry cola, red berries, pungent herbs and lavender, plus a hint of smoked meat in the background. Shows strong, energetic lift to the bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors, which turn sweeter through the back half. Closes with strong tenacity and interwoven tannins that lend discreet, firming grip.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Folie might not match the magical 2016, but it’s no less a brilliant wine with a subtle modern style in its black raspberry, kirsch liqueur, cassis, peppery garrigue, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Always the most modern style cuvée in the lineup (it sees a small amount of new oak), it nevertheless never loses its Southern Rhône soul and is full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, with ripe, seamless tannins and a great finish. This wine is roughly 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that was all destemmed. It should drink well with 2-3 years of bottle age and keep nicely for 15 years or more in cold cellars.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru comes from vines on a flat, dense clay soil, that are among the last to be picked. The wine has plenty of dark berry, cold black tea and light sea spray scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, plush tannins that lend this rondeur, harmonious with a sweet, almost candied finish. This will be more approachable than the Les Teurons, though it does not possess the same complexity.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)

Medium deep purple. A little oak almost masking the slight reduction. Clears up and integrates, bringing a darker raspberry fruit. A certain sucrosity on the palate followed by the typical firm tannins which make this wine a vin de garde in most vintages. This is really quite backward and should keep well. Drink from 2027-2033

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-97)

A low key lemon and lime colour. Clean fresh and classic on the nose. A very typical fresh stony palate, lightly washed in citrus, with enough flesh to provide the body necessary for ageing, and a fine, long, persistently mineral finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022

Decanter (97)

Bouchard’s holding here is superb: 0.90ha on the edge of the Puligny side at midslope between Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 2019, Bouchard emphasised the richness by picking this parcel last. Ripe apples, white flowers and even a touch of honey make their appearance on the nose, while the texture on the palate is unctuous and deep without being heavy. There is still enough freshness to keep this lively through the intensely long finish.

Vinous - Neal Martin (97)

The 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru has an elegant bouquet that opens in the glass with crushed stone and light oily/resinous scents, nuanced yet focused with glimpses of tropical fruit though it never impedes. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, precise and mineral-driven. There is an understated element in this "Monty" that is very appealing and it feels reassuringly persistent on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Vinous - Neal Martin (91)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru is higher-toned, verging on glossy compared to its peers with some polished new oak that I feel is masking a slight shortfall in fruit concentration. The palate has a bold entry with mainly black fruit and saturated tannins (for the vintage). It is velvety smooth but just a bit "blocky" towards the finish where I am seeking more finesse and nerve. Not bad though and it deserves a couple of years in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Vinous (92)

The 2019 Barolo is a gorgeous entry-level offering from Brezza. In fact, it's one of the best editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Bright, translucent and full of character, the straight Barolo is all charm. Crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, sage, mint and sweet spice all lend notable complexity throughout. Vineyard sites are San Lorenzo, Fossati, Ravera (Novello) and Bricco San Pietro. Fruit is harvested and vinified separately, then the lots are blended before malolactic fermentation.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is one of the best wines I have tasted from Brezza in a very long time. Sweet, perfumed and silky, the 2019 bristles with Cannubi character. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mint, rose petal and orange zest are some of the notes that grace this exquisite but potent Barolo. Give the tannins a few years to soften.

Vinous (94)

The 2019 Barolo Castellero is a deep, beguiling wine. Deeply pitched spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs meld into a core of dark-toned fruit. Virile and imposing, with notable inner sweetness, the Castellero is stunning. There's a bit of new oak influence, but it is not dominant. This is another superb Barolo from Brezza.

Decanter (97)

Brezza is dedicated to organic viticulture, and works only with indigenous yeast, big oak vessels and long macerations in the cellar. His 2019 Sarmassa is one of the most elegant Barolos of the vintage, if not the most. Bright ruby in the glass and vibrant on the nose, the tannins are impeccable. Plenty of Parma violet notes are to the fore, soaked with rhubarb root, liquorice stick and a whiff of yellow fruits. The attack is poised, soft and silky, with long, lifted acidity. There is a perfect extraction here – the tannins are very well judged and ripe.

Vinous (90)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Ciabot del Fi emerges from a vineyard in Serralunga. Deep and fleshy in the glass, the 2019 is packed with dark fruit, leather, spice, dried herbs, menthol and licorice. The 2019 was aged in cask, which helps round some of the edges while preserving plenty of intensity.

Vinous (88)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago is a powerful, brooding wine laced with dark black fruit, licorice, gravel, smoke and dried herbs. This heady, explosive Barbera packs a serious punch. Vineyard sites are Brea, Gianetto and Garblèt Sue'.

Vinous (89)

The 2017 Barolo is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. In 2017, Brovia's straight Barolo is quite floral and lifted in feel. Crushed flowers, mint, spice, blood orange and sweet berry fruit are laced throughout. As a reminder, the Brovia Barolo is a blend of all four sites the family bottles as vineyard designates, with an emphasis on the Brea cru. This mid-weight Barolo is all charm.

Vinous (90)

The 2019 Dolcetto d'Alba Vignavillej is a deep, fleshy and voluminous wine. Inky blue/purplish fruit, spice, leather and licorice are all amplified in this decidedly large-scaled Dolcetto from Brovia. Most of this fruit is from the family's Brea property in Serralunga.

Vinous - Neal Martin (95-97)

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberries and light loamy aromas coming through with aeration. It is maybe a little Musigny-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and gentle grip, slightly peppery in style with a persistent, quite saline finish. Without a doubt, this is a fabulous Bonnes-Mares with great potential. It may very well land at the top of my banded score.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-96)

5 Star Wine. Beautiful colour here, a darker crimson, and the fruit is magical. Perfectly on the red and black cusp while the whole bunches add a floral note. The Clos du Fonteny is on terrific form today with a fine balance of acidity to finish, alongside balanced tannins. A fine long aftertaste. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.

Burghound (91-94)

(Sweet Spot) (from a .25 ha parcel that is located on the southern side of the vineyard near En Ergot). Here there is sufficient reduction to blur the nuances of what are clearly floral-suffused red berry aromas. There is excellent freshness and verve to the intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors that terminate in a linear, chiseled, austere and very serious finale. This is beautiful but it’s also a ‘buy and forget you own it’ wine.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.