A true icon of old Soho serving classic food and amazing wines.
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Back from an adventurous road trip around Tuscany - Senior
buyer - Madeline Mehalko shares her learning's from her Fiat
500.
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Dessert wine, Pudding wine, stickyâ¦no matter what the moniker,
the sweet nectar of the gods have always held a special place at
the dinner table (and in our gluttonous hearts). Some may have a
penchant for the ancient method of air dried grapes, utilized in
Vin Santo and Pedro Ximenez, others preferring the thrilling
unpredictability of achieving just the right conditions required to
produce German or Canadian Eiswein, and still others are loyal to
the ânoblestâ of all sweet wines reached through botrytis (or noble
rot), most famously used in Sauternes and Tokaj.
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The vast majority of the white wine is best consumed within a
year of being produced, arguably some even within six months if you
think of the quality of mos white wine⦠Getting in to Fine Wine
territory buys you more time. Most will gain weight and complexity
after a few years in bottle, but even classic wines like Burgundy
are less and less reliable once they shed their youthful fruit. The
Loire valley is something of an anomaly, far from losing vibrancy
with time, the wines often donât hit their stride until a decade or
more in the bottle.
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Outside the obvious regions of Spain there are hidden gems to be
uncovered, âThe Other Spain.â The regions of Rueda, Bierzo, Ribera
del Duero, Penedes, Priorat and Jumilla are well worth a look. Our
buyer, Madeline Mehalko, shares these unique regions (each marked
by red circles on the map above).
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While cocktails like the Aperol Spritz and the Hugo have had
their moments in the spotlight over the past several summers, it is
still a crisp, refreshing palest pink glass of Provencal rose that
has yet to fall out of favour amongst sun worshippers around the
world. This summer even saw the rising popularity of âbroséâ
officially paving the way for men to proudly brandish their own
glass of the pink stuff, even flashing premium labels likeWhispering Angel and Chateau Leoube to show off
their new found elite status. There is no shame in adding a few
clinking ice cubes to your glass of rosé, this is the time to shed
any wine pretension and focus instead on soaking up every bit of
summertime joie de vivre. But what then becomes of our go-to
summertime fling when the chill of September sets in?
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It is no secret that 2013 was a somewhat challenging year for
Burgundy, and while this seemed to put a bit of a pallor over the
campaign when it kicked off in January earlier this year, nine
months later, these undersung wines are securely in bottle and are
arriving in the UK. I for one am loving what has come a-knocking.
It only takes opening up a bottle of something like the Domaine Duroché Les Jeunes Rois or the Domaine Taupenot-Merme Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (both
celebrated in Decanterâs recent 30 Burgundy 2013 wines under £25)
to be able to appreciate the deliciously drinkable style of these
wines and the gorgeous purity of fruit, which is so characteristic
of the 2013 vintage.
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Hardly a week goes by where the controversial subject of aged
white burgundy is not raised in some form or another, and a lively
debate ensues of whether the rewards of one of these feared yet
revered bottles is worth the inherent risk. Some devoted Burgundian
fanatics swear to have a cellar full of white burgundy and to have
never encountered more than the occasional off bottle while others
have pledged that they will never again take the risk on a category
of wine so plagued with erratic problems. At the crux of this issue
is the uncertainty of what exactly is responsible for the
heart-breaking premature oxidation of many a cherished bottle of
white burgundy made prior to the mid 2000âs. The possible causes
have been attributed it to the lowered Sulphur Dioxide levels at
this time, poor cork treatments, the extent of batonnage, the
vigour of the press, how the wine has been stored or a combination
of all of these. Extensive research has been done on the subject
with incredibly detailed records of which producers and vintages
might be most likely to fall victim to pre-mox, but without knowing
for certain why this problem is so prevalent and when it can be
expected to strike, there remains a great deal of uncertainty of
whether the issue may occur again.
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With temperatures in London pushing well past those of our
neighbours to the south, the poor unaccustomed souls stranded in
the UK are doing what they can to beat the heat and devising a
sure-fire strategy to best quench your thirst is as important
concern as any. While delicate Provencal Rose, ice-cold Chablis and
celebratory bubbles are always popular summertime swigs, my
summertime drink of choice is unwavering (if not unsurprising) when
the heat wave sets in: German Riesling. Tailor made for the summer,
Riesling has succulent stone fruits and zesty citrus freshness that
is expertly balanced by mouth-watering acidity and refreshingly low
levels of alcohol.
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146 Buckingham Palace Road 
15/F The Phoenix
04-02 OUE Downtown Gallery
201 Spear Street, Suite 1100 #71
Level 23
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